18 August 2012

On Russian School


AS I sit here waiting for my flight in the ever so tiny Burlington airport (it’s 4 hours late…. more on my trip home in another post) I decided to take some time to reflect on the last 8 weeks.  A warning right up front, I have not used English for 2 months now and it is surprisingly difficult to adapt back to using it.  I have decided to break it into four related and linked, but distinct areas of discussion: the program at the Russian School, my new observations about people, some observations about Vermont and final about Russian language itself.  I apologize for the length, but it has been a long summer, and I have a lot to say now that I can do so in English!


On Русская Школа (Russian School)

For those of you who I talked to over the past few months, and I bet a few more of you may have guessed it, Russian school was not one of the best times of my life.  I will start off by freely and openly admitting that where it not for the Katherine Davis Fellowship for Peace Scholarship through MIIS (covering my tuition, room and board for the summer I would not have gone.  The famous (or dare I say infamous) “Middlebury Way” of studying language involves absolute immersion in the language and disallows English in all but a few situations.  This frankly terrified me before I started, frustrated me to no end, but as of a few hours ago I get it.  It is essential to speak the language every day, to need to find words for common situations that would never come up in a normal class.  The point is to think in the language, to dream in the language, and really to live it.  They say that it is more immersive than many programs in Russian, and that is true in my close.  The first night with the pledge was like an absurdist paly, the first week a nightmare, the first month an annoyance, the second month a challenge but in the end a blessing.  As of this moment, I speak better Russian than I ever have and feel comfortable starting a conversation with a native speaker without fear of embarrassment.

I also wanted to add a bit on the language Pledge and reality.  The idea of “No English Spoken Here” is laudable but unrealistic.  First of all it is impossible to explain grammar like a “past passive participle” in class without using English.  Of course you have to use dictionaries and books with English in class and homework, and this is always a permitted exception.  However every day in class our teachers would speak English, I don’t begrudge them for this, and it was needed, but it is not to the letter of the law of the pledge.  Another issue is that of entrainment.  There are many hours in a day, and even though I had 4-5 hours of class a day, 3-4 of homework, club meetings, movies, meals, parties and games, there is still down time.  In that time it becomes very difficult to find distraction with Russian.  You can find movies online, but that is not always the best way to spend a full day.  There are Russian news sites, but reading them is tantamount to homework (and in fact was homework many times).  I could try reading Russian books but again that is not down time.

The most troubling issue is the sense of isolation that it forces onto students.  I have a wonderful network of people to help and always support me, but the language pledge cut me off from them in the time where I needed it most.  A time of lots of studying, high stress and all the new school difficulties, it suddenly becomes impossible to talk with the people best equip to help me cope.  While my fellow students were wonderful (more on that bellow) nothing replaces my old network of people who I can be 100% open with and will have my back and be there when I need them.  It also cut me off from the majority of US news, new US music I wanted to listen to and new movies I wanted to see.  This might not seem that hard, but it starts to pile up, and gets extremely frustrating in a time of high stress.  I will admit here and now that more than once I broke the pledge when I could not take it any more: 30 min on the NYT website here, an occasional text exchange with people from home.  I know I am not alone in this, but think that while it would be officially frowned upon no one would say it was the wrong thing to do.

I also had some frustrations with the running of the school.  At times it seemed to me that some of the staff where more interested in it as a Russian Social club, and a place for their kids to run around all summer and less on the students.  This of course does not apply to some of the excellent staff who always where around at meals and outside to talk.  Many activities ran without commentary or a lesson about what was going on, it just simply occurred.  I think more student feedback, control and input would be welcome, as well as more focus on the students being Americans than the staff being Russians.  Of course there were many wonderful moments, many great nights, fun meetings, close football matches, a play, a choir show, making movies, watching movies and the simple moment where we successfully had profound conversations without the need to consult a textbook or dictionary.  I lived for those moments and they made the time there livable and in rare moments enjoyable.

On People
           
I am sure many of you have heard me say this before, but it bears repeating: “I like Persons, I don’t like People.”  However I may have found an exception here.  I have never been associated with any somewhat random group of people from which I could always walk up to someone and start a conversation.  Granted I liked some people more than others, talked with some more than others, and preferred to spend time with some over others.  While of course there is a huge self-selection process here (it is a rare student who wants to spend 9,000 for 8 weeks of painfully non-ending studies) and also the group was limited to those interested in Russian language, Russian politics, Russian history, Russian literature ect. 

As one professor very accurately said one day at lunch, “there are no bad students here, you have to be a serious student to come here” (that is of course a translation not a direct quote).   This would explain why I was always able to talk to people, and never had a dull conversation.  I am sure there is a term for this from sociology, but as I disagree with that discipline’s very existence, I will not try to find it.  I am glad to have met people there, and I honestly believe that our paths will cross again at some point, in Russia or in DC.  If you are reading this, stay in touch guys!

On Vermont

Having never been to Vermont before, I was not really sure what to expect once I got here.  I expected it to be a “normal” place just with more trees, cows and farms than the standard OC suburb.  Of course I know about the regional differences in the US, but not having any experience with New England beyond a weeklong trip years ago I was not sure.  This is a small state, very small.  Middlebury is number 20 on their most populated cities with 8,000 people.  Their main highway is one lane each way.  I have seen exactly one stoplight in the whole state.

What I did like is their intensively partisan “made in Vermont, grown in Vermont” movement.  I had some very good meals made of 100% Vermont products.  People here love nature, their New England stoicism and their traditions.  It is a beautiful place, very welcoming and not for me! Goodbye Vermont, it has been fun, and I don’t think we will ever meet again!

On Russian

The whole point of being here was of course to learn Russian, and that I did!  In the beginning it was very frustrating since I had not studied Russian for a year and a half and while I still remembered words and phrases, my writing and especially grammar skills had atrophied.  I started out in one course, but soon got lost as we learned new material while they assumed I had not forgotten the old.  This resulted in a very unpleasant week, and even more unpleasant test, after which I moved to a lower level.  I that class I found a home, while most of the curriculum was material what I had done already, it was a wonderful review.  Additionally, I was able to focus on new concepts more fully, and really learn the parts I had missed.  We had three instructors and they all did a wonderful job pushing us while also knowing our limits and what we could and could not do.  The newest thing for me was the 400 word essays every week.  400 words is not much (1/5 the number in this post), but in Russian that is a lot.  A few were on silly themes like “home of your dreams” but I also had the chance to do serious topics and even a presentation on my favorite Russian city.  The course served me well, I am happy with my grades, very happy with my new language level and my oral and written placement exams in Monterey will not be an issue!

Today feel comfortable using Russian in many situations where before I would have been lost, I have developed “circumlocution” skills (working around words/grammar you don’t know) and am finally comfortable with the complex nature of Russian cases, tenses and its’ tricky verbs.  The language pledge with all Russian all the time served me well, plus always having a professor around the corner to answer a question or to help you though lunch conversation is a very unique situation.  Avoiding conversations where both participants need a dictionary is a huge plus as well. Too often language classes are more concerned with “how you say it” not “what you say”.  By having to live with the language, and possessing my normal urge to express complex thoughts, opinions, and yes to lecture, I overcame this.  I got to the point where I can think in Russian without going through English to express simple and even some complex thoughts and opinions.  The pinnacle was when I could discuss politics, philosophy or other “real life” topics in Russian, in the same manner they would occur in Russian.

In the hours since I have left, I have realized that I will literally need to readjust to speaking English now.  Words like “yes,” “no,” “please,” “excuse me,” I now automatically respond to in Russian.  But even more complex constructions like “after that,” for example,” I do not know,” and many others I have to cut off the Russian word before I can say the correct English one.  This is crazy to me, and won’t last long, but it has proved to me that this whole process works. I eagerly await my first Russian class at MIIS to compare myself to my fellow students, and I think I can finally prove to myself that my hard work will pay off. 

I have 3-4 more semesters of Russian class ahead of me, and while I will never be fluent (nor do I seek to be) I hope to have a consistent and lasting grasp on the language as it will be a professional and personal asset for the rest of my life.

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It is a bit crazy to say this, but as much as I despised specific moments, as frustrated as I got and wanted to go home, I am glad I came here.  I learned a lot about Russian, more about people and about myself and what I am capable of and what my limits are.  I don’t think I would go back, but I would do it again if given the chance to relive this summer.

For those of you still reading, good for you!  I know this has been a long post, and probably should have been more than one, but I needed to get this down in words before I move on to my next bigger and better experience (plus had a lot of waiting time and little to do). As always, when I finish one adventure I have another lined up, no this one is a little too close for comfort.   Monday Aug 20, I start at the Monterrey Institute and a new chapter of my life.  More on that later!!  Once again I am and I shall always remain….

Matt

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